The paved, pedestrian-friendly esplanade, lined with melaleuca trees, runs along in front of the beach at Palm Cove. We think makes it one of the prettiest resort towns in Australia
I love Palm Cove. This is something that I have in common with Bill Bryson (as mentioned in his marvellous travel book 'Down Under' in which, interesting aside, Andy's good friend Trevor features - he's the photographer on the train). Anyway, less of the tenuous claims to fame and more about how Palm Cove manages to be a purpose-built 'resort' that in theory I should hate, but in fact I love.
We stayed in Palm Cove on our first ever visit to Tropical North Queensland, and splashed out then on a room in the Reef House (a simple Brigadier Room — which was lovely). Ironically, the rate we paid then was more than we paid on our recent visit in a much larger Verandah Room. I am guessing this might be a result of the increased competition from new resorts and 'spas' that have been built in the last few years in Palm Cove. But please don't get the impression that this is a building site, or over-developed beach front — it isn't. It's also almost too much of a misnomer to call it a resort — it's more holiday-oriented village (ah — expect that now makes it sound like Butlins!). I think I should explain further:
At times, you'll feel you have this lovely long beach to yourself, as the village of Palm Cove is cleverly hidden behind the palm trees
Palm Cove is a beautiful stretch of beach situated about a 15 minute drive north of Cairns (see map of Palm Cove). There is no reason I can see to actually stay in Cairns as it is, of course, a town and, while it is 'on' the water, there is no beach, and while it does now have a fancy lido, I still don't see the point. Not when Palm Cove is only 15 minutes away.
The main reason for a visit 'to Cairns' is to (one assumes) visit the Barrier Reef, ride the Skyrail or train into the rainforest and tablelands, head up to the Daintree Area for more rainforest, and enjoy the tropical weather. All of which can be done just as easily and far more comfortably in Palm Cove (in my opinion!).
Palm Cove beach almost meets my criteria for a perfect beach, checking the boxes of nice sand, palm trees, warm water and view (of islands and the coast curving round). It does however have a road right by, it but I am making a concession on this one — no, I am not cheating! The 'road' in question is brick paved, and called the 'esplanade', and with a speed limit of 20kph (practically a fast walk) there isn't a stream of traffic, and it's easy to ignore. There are palm trees and green areas, and you can sit on the many benches and picnic tables along the seafront. If you are a small person you can also enjoy what is quite possibly the best-placed children's playground I have ever seen!
Could this possibly be the best-placed children's playground in the world? Alex (Andy!) thought so!
This place is all about holidays. It doesn't pretend to be too much of a town or community in its own right, as almost every building near the beach is a hotel or apartments, but that doesn't mean it's lacking in soul. The buildings are all different, and the shops and restaurants imaginatively done. There is a small 'shopping centre' — all very Caribbean with its decked areas and split levels.
Restaurants line the lower floors of some of the buildings with some fabulous views across (the 'road') to the beach and sea. Giant melaleuca trees make the road a grand avenue and provide plenty of shade. You wouldn't want to live here year-round, I don't think, as it's not 'real', but a couple of weeks? No problem! Mind you, thinking about it I reckon I could do a couple of months!
This gives you a great idea of the charm of the Reef House and its surroundings (here seen nestled in palm trees of the esplanade).
So Palm Cove itself is lovely. And there is no shortage of places to stay. A lot of the newer properties are very spa-oriented, and come under the luxury 'zen' category. The good thing about these places is that you can visit for lunch or dinner, and spa treatment (if you want to), but you can capture the essence of tropical living far better at the Sebel Reef House. Or you can just have a spa treatment at the Sebel and not leave it at all!
I love the Reef House. I shouldn't really as it is, if we're doing labels, a 'chain' hotel. By chain I am referring to Mirvac — purveyor of fine antipodean properties, in my opinion — both hotels and residential. I am again breaking a self-imposed rule here, as I am not supposed to be including this type of 'corporate' establishment in inspired Australia. But I can't help it (and I anticipate a couple more of the Sebel properties making in onto the list at some point). The Sebel Reef House is gorgeous. It is colonial perfection! And I don't mean that in a way that is in anyway insulting to anyone. I just mean it in stylistic and interior design terms. I would never decorate my own house with ceiling fans and wicker furniture, but here it's just perfect.
The Reef House Spa is behind the shutters — so about a 60-second walk from the spa to the pool!
But it's not just the setting (sublime) or the décor (fabulous colonial, but modern) that makes the Reef House so great. There is also the staff (oh, and the food!). The staff are what staff at any good hotel should be like (but often elsewhere those extra stars comes sneering, and I hate that). Being met from your free airport transfer minibus, (although I am sure if you pay for transfers you can have a limo!), you get a cheery welcome and some non-complaining bag carrying to the reception area. Your first glimpse will be of the sea across the road from the hotel, and the doorway through to the tropical surrounds of a pool (there is more than one!) ahead of you — oh, I want to dive in! Reception staff are efficient and helpful. Taken chattily to your room — bags are already waiting, and a quick tour included.
You don't really need the mosquito nets in the air-conditioned rooms, but they look romantic!
The rooms are quirky for a hotel and interesting. The smallest Brigadier rooms are, in fact, little studios in their own right — with great swinging double seats on the patio or verandah. The Verandah Rooms are much larger, with a great (for keeping the room tidy!) suitcase / wardrobe / dressing area room, the main room, and then the verandah itself with 'kitchen' area. I was straight out here when I read the note about the complimentary hand-made chocolates in the fridge! I am nothing if not predictable. There are also larger rooms and suites, and if you aren't facing the sea then you get a lovely view of a pool and lots of palm trees and assorted foliage. I don't think there is a bad view.
But it's the little things that make the Reef House what it is for me — an unstuffy but luxurious hotel. Keeping up good traditions like the Brigadiers cocktail hour — candles are lit around the hotel and walkways at dusk and the free punch is served in the bar! The bar is also an honesty bar where you can help yourself to whatever you want (or need!) when you fancy — just write what you had in the book. Breakfast is a fantastic spread of yumminess. You can pay a few dollars extra for cooked things, but with a continental buffet like this we didn't bother.
Planning Your Trip
I love the cinema at the arts centre — you can sit on the floor, or on the reclining cow-print benches...
I have no idea who came up with the idea of having creamy vanilla rice pudding as one of the breakfast treats but let me tell you — a generous serving of that with some beautiful rhubarb compote and bit of bircher muesli on the side (with extra pecan nuts on the top) set me up wonderfully for the day — OK, OK so I clearly went back to the buffet and had 2 helpings of the rice pudding... but it was that delicious!
If it's dusk then it's time for free punch in the Brigadier's bar! I had mine by the pool...
Lunch and dinner are as excellent as breakfast. The setting for all three is the sea-facing deck and restaurant area at the front of the hotel (or for lunch you can sit at the poolside café if you prefer). The restaurant really is beautiful and I cannot fault the food in any way. It's not cheap to eat here (by Australian standards - still pretty reasonable by UK standards), but it is certainly worth it. And the good news is that when you exhaust the menu, there are some other fantastic places to eat, all within a 5 minute stroll along the front. Nu Nu's is worth a mention (not least for its ridiculous name!), but for its superb food, good service and to-die-for cocktails! Oh, now I am getting hungry!!
This chap guards the entrance to the Reef House Restaurant!
Palm Cove is not a scruffy surfer resort, but neither is it stuffy, in spite of the high quality of hotels here. It's very much a relaxed beach resort, and one that families and couples should enjoy equally (we've been here as both!). A lot of Australians come here for a 'short break' — a few days to recharge the batteries and enjoy the sunshine, spas and surrounds. I think that's a good way to think about Palm Cove.
There isn't a lot to do here itself, but use it as a 'break' in your itinerary to have bit of R&R tropical North Queensland style on your trip Down Under. Don't forget you can also fit in the key sightseeing goals of the reef and the rainforest from here, with all the effort of asking the excellent tour desk at the hotel to organise it all. It's a hard life being a tourist, it really is...
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